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Continue reading ‘Seared Scallops with Pancetta and Brussels Sprouts’
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According to Tom Colicchio, there was a time when small towns in France each had a central bakery. The story goes that after the bread was done baking, the townsfolk would use the still-hot oven to roast their own food. Meats would be placed on an upper rack and potatoes would be placed below, allowing the drippings from the meat to season them. This dish is designed to replicate that effect by adding bacon and rich chicken stock to flavor the potatoes.
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This is the second post from my father-in-law’s birthday dinner. I enjoyed this dish even more than the steak. Following the recipe will yield just over a cup of the roast poblano mayo, only half of which is required for the potato salad. Once you taste it, you’ll realize this is great news for the next few sandwiches you make. You could make this vegetarian by garnishing with something other than crispy bacon, but I sure wouldn’t recommend it.
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I’ve written before about how much I like David Chang’s food (see resources page and Bo Ssam post, for example), but it’s worth repeating – the guy is doing wonderful things. He’s a classically-trained, Korean-American chef who grew up in Virginia, worked in Japan, and lives and works in New York. He has three restaurants in New York and is unquestionably one of the hottest chefs in America right now. While it was the significant amount of profanity in his cookbook that first caught my interest, the 100% success rate I’ve had on recipes from the book is the real reason I love it. This dish basically takes standard low-country shrimp and grits and adds the Japanese touches of bacon dashi and usukuchi. It’s absolutely worth a try.
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This is one of those recipes that appears much more difficult than it really is. At lunchtime today, I went to the kitchen, made the cornbread, put it in the oven, zested a lemon, seasoned the fish, put it in the fridge, made a sandwich, ate the sandwich, took the cornbread out, transferred it to a cooling rack, covered it, washed the pan, put it away, and went back to the office. Total elapsed time = 45 minutes. Once you’ve done that, the rest couldn’t be easier.
As I mention below, this can be done in three separate skillets if you really want everything to be piping hot. Alternatively, you can make everything in one skillet. I highly recommend this. Once the fish is done, you can transfer it to a plate and allow it to rest for a few minutes while you clean, dry, and put-away the skillet you used.
Thanks to my uncle Jeff for sending this recipe along.
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Traditionally this dish is made with Guanciale, a cured jowl bacon from Italy. Pancetta is certainly close enough, and infinitely easier to find. There were 5 kids eating this dinner, so I went a little easy on the crushed red. If I were to make it again for adults, I’d use 2 tsp for sure. Finally, while any tomato-based pasta sauce will do, I made a batch of my Grandma Joanne’s famous sauce. (Browned pork, garlic, onion, olive oil, oregano, basil, italian seasonings, black pepper, salt, and canned tomatoes and/or sauce, browned pork. You said pork twice. I like pork!)
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This recipe is another example of me taking a classic recipe and simplifying it in a way that would frustrate the purists. This dish really should be prepared with pearl onions. The mushrooms and onions should be prepared separately (and slightly differently). But this is slightly easier, takes less time to prepare, and uses one fewer pan – all good things.